Telluride Ice Climbing Ice Climbing in Telluride, Mountain Village and the San Juan Mountains

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Telluride is a postcard-perfect town. It’s set at the end of a valley, and hedged in by sky-scraping mountains. Adding to its appeal, Telluride is home to some of Colorado’s largest and most spectacular waterfalls. In the winter, the cold freezes these watery torrents, creating pathways for climbers to follow. Bridal Veil Falls, Ingram Falls and the Ames Ice House are three favorites among locals and visitors. As they look to the ice, \onlookers see specs of brave men and women leaving it all on the line for a quick jolt of pure, unadulterated adrenaline.

Ames Falls
This is the steep, 600 foot cliff overlooking the tiny village of Ames. Ames Wall boasts Ames Ice Hose, and the forest below has a few shorter, easier waterfalls. From Telluride, drive west for 10 minutes or so to 145. Take a left on 145. Drive for another 10 or 15 minutes in a southerly direction, passing Mountain Village and Alta Lakes on your left. Take a right on Ilium Road. Drive 2 minutes, and take a left on Ames Rd towards the obvious Ames Power Station. Ames wall is reached by taking the trail to the northeast of the station.

Bridal Veil Falls
Located at the eastern end of the Telluride Valley, Bridal Veil Falls is a challenging ice climb and is considered a classic. Sign a waiver at trailhead, and advance with caution as the approach is along several avalanche paths. DO NOT climb on the falls directly below the Power House and stay off the structure at the top because it is private property.

Ingram Falls
Ingram Falls is another classic climb that is located to the left Bridal Veil and can be seen from the town of Telluride (Ingram is often confused with Bridal Veil). This is also a difficult climb and the approach is tricky due to numerous avalanche paths.

Ouray
Forty-five minutes from Telluride is the town of Ouray. During the winter months the Ouray Ice Park is open for climbing, and the cliffs of the Uncompaghre Gorge are known world-wide as one of the premier places for climbing ice. There are many developed climbs of all abilities at the park. The ice park is also a great place to learn the sport of ice climbing. For those wanting adventure, head up the Camp Bird Road to the routes up there. You'll find classics like the Skylight, Birdbrain Blvd and the Ribbon.

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Ouray Ice Climbing

Located in the Uncompahgre Gorge in Ouray, Colorado, the Ouray Ice Park was opened in 1995 as the world's first park devoted exclusively to the sport of ice climbing. Climbing in the park is free. A small band of volunteers developed the Park utilizing a unique set of assets found perhaps only in Ouray. An unprecedented number of climbers visiting from around the world has lead to the formation of a nonprofit corporation to manage the Park. Thanks to a $5,000 donation from the Access Fund, a $7,000 donation from the Ouray Chamber Resort Association, and a $20,000 anonymous donation; the Ouray Ice Park now has a reliable and constant source of water and a brand new plumbing and delivery system.

Fund raising to date has been primarily by donations and membership fees. Please consider becoming a member and supporting the sponsors that support the Ice Park. The primary fund raiser is the Ouray Ice Festival which has become a major climber's rendezvous each January. Ouray locals put the event together that features exhibition climbing, free clinics, seminars, slide shows, and gear demos.

Ice climbing enthusiasts have been coming to Ouray, Colorado since the seventies to ply their craft on a few of the steep classic's that formed on the sheer walls of the Uncompagre Gorge. Climb's such as "Stone free" and "Tangled Up in Blue" were the stiff test pieces in the gorge located at the south end of the sleepy alpine hamlet. Wood shafted ice axes, flexible crampons, leather boots, wool stocking caps and gloves, and a considerable degree of skill and moxie comprised the tools of the day.

Although the equipment changed dramatically over the next 15-20 years, the ice climbing challenges in Ouray remained very much the same. It wasn't until some enterprising local climbers came upon the idea to manipulate a nearby water source and start spraying it over the edges of the mile long gorge that the Ouray ice climbing scene began to evolve into its present state.

Unbeknownst to many climbers, the portion of the Uncompagre Gorge where the Ouray Ice Park is located lies on private property. Eric Jacobsen, owner and operator of Ouray Hydroelectric, purchased the property in a bankruptcy auction from a defunct utility company in 1992. Eric is among the rare breed of benevolent private property owners sympathetic to climbers and their desire to climb on his property.

Eric's only caveat was that he had to have adequate liability insurance coverage provided for himself and his company in order to allow climbing on his property. Under a unique land-use arrangement, the County of Ouray insured Eric and Ouray Hydroelectric under its insurance umbrella and Eric in turn leased to the county the use of the land for recreational purposes for $1.00 a year until 2008. This was the critical ingredient for laying the foundation of the Ice Park.

In the fall of 1994, Bill Whitt, Gary Wild, and Mike O'Donnell strung out some half inch pvc pipe and the odd assortment of garden hose and sprinkler heads and began to farm ice in the gorge. The results surprised even the pundits: long steep flows of crystal blue ice on previously blank rock; the Ouray Ice Park had arrived. Word spread quickly among the small ice climbing fraternity and that winter of 1994-5 saw many climbers come down to Ouray to test out the newly formed terrain.

The Ouray Ice Park was built entirely by an enthusiastic volunteer work force as well as donated materials and capital. Ouray Ice Park, Inc. (OIPI) was formed in January of 1997 in order to provide some formal organization to what had previously been a loosely organized grassroots effort. OIPI is a nonprofit corporation that includes nine volunteer board members who are considerably skilled at ditch-digging and plumbing systems. The Ouray Ice Park as we know it today is a shining example of what a volunteer organization can accomplish with little capital but a lot of enthusiasm and vision. OIPI has continued to improve and expand the Ice Park each year through memberships, corporate sponsorships, and funds raised by the annual Ouray Ice Festival.

The Ouray Ice Festival, held each Martin Luther King Jr. holiday weekend in January, is an eclectic gathering of ice climbers, gear manufacturing exhibitors, and ice climbing voyeurs simply thrilled to watch at a safe distance from the precipitous edges. The festival was first held in January of 1996 and is promoted by ice climbing pioneer Jeff Lowe. The festival is now widely recognized as being the premier gathering of its kind, with familiar faces returning annually to climb, socialize, test out the latest equipment, or watch the pro's try to scratch their way up the latest competition route.

Over 70% of the annual operating capital needed to run the Ouray Ice Park is raised each year by the Ouray Ice Festival and it's corporate sponsors. As the Festival has grown so too has the Ice Park, and the relationship has directly resulted in the fine ice climbing venue that we are all able to enjoy each winter here in Ouray.

In 2002 Ouray Ice Park Inc. completed their buyout of Jeff Lowe from the Ouray Ice Festival. The Ouray Ice Festival is now 100% locally owned and operated by Ouray Ice Park Inc. The festival is a major source of funding for the Ouray Ice Park and all proceeds go directly to the operation and maintenance of the facility.

 

Every January we meet to teach, learn and be one with the ice. The Ouray Ice Festival, held in January , is an eclectic gathering of ice climbers, gear manufacturing exhibitors, and ice climbing voyeurs simply thrilled to watch at a safe distance from the precipitous edges.

The festival was first held in January of 1996 and is promoted by ice climbing pioneer Jeff Lowe. The festival is now widely recognized as the premier gathering of its kind.

Events over this incredible weekend include various climbing clinics from beginning to advanced, an opportunity to check out and try the latest and greatest gear and catch up with some of the world’s most famous and experienced climbers. During the Festival, we offer one of the best competition route’s that continues to challenge the best climbers in the world. Plus we are always adding or changing things up .be sure to check out the schedule of events for things like the ax throwing contest, tight rope walk across the gorge, and the mariad of other festivities.

The Festival isn’t just for climbers – we also have gear auctions, film and slide show presentations and we’ve added a Kids Climbing Wall away from the gorge to get the little tykes started off right. Over half of the annual operating capital needed to run the Ouray Ice Park is raised each year by the Ouray Ice Festival and it's corporate sponsors. As the Festival has grown, so too has the Ice Park, and the relationship has directly resulted in the fine ice climbing venue that we are all able to enjoy each winter here in Ouray.
 

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Rock Climbing in Telluride Mountain Climbing

Ophir Wall: 5.6 to 5.10 pitches. Post Office Crack, a classic 4 or 5 pitch, 5.7 - 5.8

East Buttress: Ophir Wall. 1 and 2 pitch from 5.3 - 5.10.

Cracked Canyon: 5.6 to 5.11.

Ames Wall: Near Town of Ames2 to 4 pitch from 5.6.

Telluride Cliffs: Above Telluride School, climbs short (20 to 55 feet)

Needle Rock: Spire located near Bushwacker and The Plunge ski runs, 5.8/5.9 double pitch climb.

 

 

 

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