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Telluride Ice
Climbing Ice Climbing in Telluride, Mountain
Village and the San Juan Mountains
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Telluride is a postcard-perfect town. It’s set at the
end of a valley, and hedged in by sky-scraping
mountains.
Adding to its appeal, Telluride is home to
some of Colorado’s largest and most spectacular
waterfalls. In the
winter, the cold freezes these watery
torrents, creating pathways for climbers to follow.
Bridal Veil Falls,
Ingram Falls and the Ames Ice House
are three favorites among locals and visitors. As they
look to the ice,
\onlookers see specs of brave men and
women leaving it all on the line for a quick jolt of
pure, unadulterated
adrenaline.
Ames Falls
This is the steep, 600 foot cliff overlooking the tiny
village of Ames. Ames Wall boasts Ames Ice Hose, and
the
forest below has a few shorter, easier waterfalls. From
Telluride, drive west for 10 minutes or so to 145.
Take
a left on 145. Drive for another 10 or 15 minutes in a
southerly direction, passing Mountain Village and
Alta
Lakes on your left. Take a right on Ilium Road. Drive 2
minutes, and take a left on Ames Rd towards the
obvious
Ames Power Station. Ames wall is reached by taking the
trail to the northeast of the station.
Bridal Veil Falls
Located at the eastern end of the Telluride Valley,
Bridal Veil Falls is a challenging ice climb and is
considered a classic. Sign a waiver at trailhead, and
advance with caution as the approach is along several
avalanche paths. DO NOT climb on the falls directly
below the Power House and stay off the structure at the
top because it is private property.
Ingram Falls
Ingram Falls is another classic climb that is located to
the left Bridal Veil and can be seen from the town of
Telluride (Ingram is often confused with Bridal Veil).
This is also a difficult climb and the approach is
tricky
due to numerous avalanche paths.
Ouray
Forty-five minutes from Telluride is the town of Ouray.
During the winter months the Ouray Ice Park is open
for
climbing, and the cliffs of the Uncompaghre Gorge are
known world-wide as one of the premier places for
climbing ice. There are many developed climbs of all
abilities at the park. The ice park is also a great
place
to learn the sport of ice climbing. For those
wanting adventure, head up the Camp Bird Road to the
routes
up there. You'll find classics like the Skylight,
Birdbrain Blvd and the Ribbon.
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Ouray Ice Climbing
Located in the Uncompahgre Gorge in Ouray, Colorado, the
Ouray Ice Park was opened in 1995 as the
world's first
park devoted exclusively to the sport of ice climbing.
Climbing in the park is free. A small band of
volunteers
developed the Park utilizing a unique set of assets
found perhaps only in Ouray. An unprecedented
number of
climbers visiting from around the world has lead to the
formation of a nonprofit corporation to
manage the Park.
Thanks to a $5,000 donation from the Access Fund, a
$7,000 donation from the Ouray
Chamber Resort
Association, and a $20,000 anonymous donation; the Ouray
Ice Park now has a reliable and
constant source of water
and a brand new plumbing and delivery system.
Fund raising to date has been primarily by donations and
membership fees. Please consider becoming a
member and
supporting the sponsors that support the Ice Park. The
primary fund raiser is the Ouray Ice
Festival which has
become a major climber's rendezvous each January. Ouray
locals put the event together
that features exhibition
climbing, free clinics, seminars, slide shows, and gear
demos.
Ice climbing enthusiasts have been coming to Ouray,
Colorado since the seventies to ply their craft on a
few
of the steep classic's that formed on the sheer walls of
the Uncompagre Gorge. Climb's such as "Stone free" and
"Tangled Up in Blue" were the stiff test pieces in the
gorge located at the south end of the sleepy
alpine
hamlet. Wood shafted ice axes, flexible crampons,
leather boots, wool stocking caps and gloves,
and a
considerable degree of skill and moxie comprised the
tools of the day.
Although the equipment changed dramatically over the
next 15-20 years, the ice climbing challenges in
Ouray
remained very much the same. It wasn't until some
enterprising local climbers came upon the idea
to
manipulate a nearby water source and start spraying it
over the edges of the mile long gorge that the
Ouray ice
climbing scene began to evolve into its present state.
Unbeknownst to many climbers, the portion of the
Uncompagre Gorge where the Ouray Ice Park is
located
lies on private property. Eric Jacobsen, owner and
operator of Ouray Hydroelectric, purchased
the property
in a bankruptcy auction from a defunct utility company
in 1992. Eric is among the rare breed
of benevolent
private property owners sympathetic to climbers and
their desire to climb on his property.
Eric's only
caveat was that he had to have adequate liability
insurance coverage provided for himself and his
company
in order to allow climbing on his property. Under a
unique land-use arrangement, the County of
Ouray insured
Eric and Ouray Hydroelectric under its insurance
umbrella and Eric in turn leased to the
county the use
of the land for recreational purposes for $1.00 a year
until 2008. This was the critical
ingredient for laying
the foundation of the Ice Park.
In the fall of 1994, Bill Whitt, Gary Wild, and Mike
O'Donnell strung out some half inch pvc pipe and the
odd
assortment of garden hose and sprinkler heads and began
to farm ice in the gorge. The results
surprised even the
pundits: long steep flows of crystal blue ice on
previously blank rock; the Ouray Ice
Park had arrived.
Word spread quickly among the small ice climbing
fraternity and that winter of 1994-5
saw many climbers
come down to Ouray to test out the newly formed terrain.
The Ouray Ice Park was built entirely by an enthusiastic
volunteer work force as well as donated materials
and
capital. Ouray Ice Park, Inc. (OIPI) was formed in
January of 1997 in order to provide some formal
organization to what had previously been a loosely
organized grassroots effort. OIPI is a nonprofit corporation that includes nine volunteer board members
who are considerably skilled at ditch-digging and plumbing systems. The Ouray Ice Park as we know it today
is a shining example of what a volunteer
organization
can accomplish with little capital but a lot of
enthusiasm and vision. OIPI has continued to
improve and
expand the Ice Park each year through memberships,
corporate sponsorships, and funds raised
by the annual
Ouray Ice Festival.
The Ouray Ice Festival, held each Martin Luther King Jr.
holiday weekend in January, is an eclectic gathering
of
ice climbers, gear manufacturing exhibitors, and ice
climbing voyeurs simply thrilled to watch at a safe
distance from the precipitous edges. The festival was
first held in January of 1996 and is promoted by ice
climbing pioneer Jeff Lowe. The festival is now widely
recognized as being the premier gathering of its kind,
with familiar faces returning annually to climb,
socialize, test out the latest equipment, or watch the
pro's
try to scratch their way up the latest competition
route.
Over 70% of the annual operating capital needed to run
the Ouray Ice Park is raised each year by the Ouray
Ice
Festival and it's corporate sponsors. As the Festival
has grown so too has the Ice Park, and the
relationship
has directly resulted in the fine ice climbing venue
that we are all able to enjoy each winter
here in Ouray.
In 2002 Ouray Ice Park Inc. completed their buyout of
Jeff Lowe from the Ouray Ice Festival. The Ouray Ice
Festival is now 100% locally owned and operated by Ouray
Ice Park Inc. The festival is a major source of
funding
for the Ouray Ice Park and all proceeds go directly to
the operation and maintenance of the facility.
Every January we meet
to teach, learn and be one with the ice.
The Ouray Ice Festival, held in January , is
an eclectic gathering of ice climbers, gear
manufacturing exhibitors, and ice climbing
voyeurs simply thrilled to watch at a safe
distance from the precipitous edges.
The
festival was first held in January of 1996
and is promoted by ice climbing pioneer Jeff
Lowe. The festival is now widely recognized
as the premier gathering of its kind.
Events over this incredible weekend include
various climbing clinics from beginning to
advanced, an opportunity to check out and
try the latest and greatest gear and catch
up with some of the world’s most famous and
experienced climbers. During the Festival,
we offer one of the best competition route’s
that continues to challenge the best
climbers in the world. Plus we are always
adding or changing things up .be sure to
check out the schedule of events for things
like the ax throwing contest, tight rope
walk across the gorge, and the mariad of
other festivities.
The Festival isn’t just for climbers – we
also have gear auctions, film and slide show
presentations and we’ve added a Kids
Climbing Wall away from the gorge to get the
little tykes started off right. Over half of the
annual operating capital needed to run the
Ouray Ice Park is raised each year by the Ouray Ice Festival and it's corporate
sponsors. As the Festival has grown, so too
has the Ice Park, and the relationship has
directly resulted in the fine ice climbing
venue that we are all able to enjoy each
winter here in Ouray.
Telluride Flyfishing, Ski School and Lodging Book
an Adventure with Telluride Today.com NOW!
Rock Climbing
in Telluride Mountain Climbing
Ophir Wall: 5.6 to 5.10 pitches. Post Office
Crack, a classic 4 or 5 pitch, 5.7 - 5.8
East Buttress: Ophir Wall. 1 and 2 pitch
from 5.3 - 5.10.
Cracked Canyon: 5.6 to 5.11.
Ames Wall: Near Town of Ames2 to 4 pitch
from 5.6.
Telluride Cliffs: Above Telluride School,
climbs short (20 to 55 feet)
Needle Rock: Spire located near Bushwacker
and The Plunge ski runs, 5.8/5.9 double
pitch climb.
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